The Stone Circle at Lochbuie
The monuments comprise a stone circle and two other standing stones, all of prehistoric date and visible as a series of upstanding stones. The stone circle and one of the standing stones were first scheduled in 1964, but an inadequate area was included to protect all of the archaeological remains: the present re-scheduling rectifies this. The stone circle is situated on level pasture at the head of Loch Buie at approximately 10m OD. The two other standing stones lie some 40m SW of and 115m WSW of the stone circle respectively, but within the same present parcel of land. The stone circle originally consisted of nine stones. One of these is now missing and its position has been marked in recent times by a small boulder. The circle measures approximately 12.3m in diameter and is composed for the most part of granite slabs, which have been positioned with their flatter faces set towards the inside of the circle. The tallest stone stands about 2m high and measures c.0.85m by 0.3m at its base. An outlying standing stone, situated 4.6m SE of the circle, comprises a pointed granite block standing 0.85m high and measuring c.0.6m by 0.3m at its base. The single standing stone situated about 40m SW of the stone circle stands about 3m high and measures c.0.85m by 0.3m at its base, tapering to a fairly narrow top. The standing stone situated about 115m WSW of the stone circle comprises a comparatively flat-sided monolith, aligned NE and SW. This stands about 2.15m high, although the top has been broken off in antiquity, and measures c.0.75m by 0.7m at its base. Stone settings of this type are characteristic of the Neolithic period and normally date to the third millennium BC. Three separate areas are proposed for scheduling, as marked in red on the accompanying map. These include the remains described and an area around them within which related material may be expected to survive. The three areas are as follows:
1. The largest area is sub-circular in shape, centred on the stone circle and the outlying standing stone closest to the stone circle, and has maximum dimensions of 38m NW-SE by 33m transversely. Its NW limit is defined by, but excludes, the field boundary.
2. The second area is centred on the standing stone situated about 40 SW of the stone circle and is circular in shape, measuring 10m in diameter.
3. The third area is centred on the standing stone situated about 115m WSW of the stone circle and comprises a truncated circle, with a maximum diameter of 10m. It is defined to the NW by the field boundary, which is itself excluded from the scheduling.
MacPhaidein
Synopsis
MacPhaidein: Origins
Part I of our story begins at the dawn of history when the first humans inhabited the Hebrides about 3500BC. These western islands of what is now Scotland were populated by a group of Aryan people later known as the Celts. They were a nomadic race who had originated in Asia. Also known as Gaels, they had trekked slowly across India and Asia Minor and once were so numerous at one location that one area was called "Galatia". These people slowly but deliberately spread northward over Europe and finally reached the northern shores of France and Brittan. This hearty race soon established themselves in Ireland and Scotland. The fist evidence of humans on Mull was at Lochbuie about 3500BC when the Stone Circle and Kerb Cairn were built. These humans were called Bhuidhe (Buie) or the People of Yellow Fair Skin and were the ancestors of the race we come to know as Celts discovered and recorded in 1200BC by the Romans and they flourished at Lochbuie for 4000 years. Their language was a composite of basic utterances acquired over centuries of migrations through strange lands and was called "Gaelic" meaning "Stranger". The clothing was primitive and consisted of the hides of animals wrapped around the loins and draped over the shoulders. This mode of crude dress was "Celtic" or "Kilted". Another peculiarity was their music which was centered around a device composed of a sheepskin bag which emitted a background drone through hollow pipes while the musician played a tune through a mouth instrument; the entire apparatus was called a "bagpipe". By necessity, they were required to live together in small family groups for distribution of work and procurement of food. Each group controlled a certain portion of land with a hierarchical structure and a chief. There were several groups discovered at different locations on Mull from around the same time with carbon dating of monolithic circles and cairns as they did at Lochbuie. This family grouping would become to be known as the clan society from about 1200AD to 1746AD.
Part II of our story begins around 430AD when it is first recorded that Palladius, a bishop born in France was sent by Pope Celestine to minister to the "Scots believing in Christ." It is believed that the Culdees had arrived much earlier as there is evidence of Christianity existing in the British Isles prior to 430 thus adds to the Pope's reasoning. This explanation holds as to why Saint Patrick converted to Culdeanism as he was not sent by Rome to Ireland but he came in defiance of ecclesiastical law which forbade bishops leaving their diocese. According to F. Bonifas, the monks of the Culdean Church were taught by 1st century Christians in Jerusalem and founded the Culdean Church in the 2nd century which was restored by Saint Patrick in Ireland in the 5th century. In May 563AD Saint Columba, the celebrated founder of the Culdee Church in Scotland, exiled from his native Ireland, traveled to Iona with 12 companions and founded a monastery. From Iona they set about the conversion of pagan Scotland and much of northern England to Christianity. It is believed one of the 12 was Páidín as he was assigned by Saint Oran (also one of the 12) before his death c563AD, to the Isle of Mull to build a chapel and spread the gospel.
Part III begins as Páidín travels to Mull making his home in Lochbuie and built the first chapel of Mull. This Chapel was to become the later chapel of Caibeal Mheamhair around the 14th Century. Tradition states that Páidín (540AD-620AD) was a Culdee and descendant of Saint Patrick (385AD-461AD) and Saint Sheelah. He preached the gospel of the Culdees to Mull establishing two Chapels with one at Lochbuie where he lived and the other at Baliscate. Excavations at Lochbuie and Baliscate have shown 6th century carbon dating and influences of Saint Columba and both being dedicated to Saint Oran. After establishing a Culdee presence and assigning his sons as missionaries to the tribes of Mull, he preached the rest of his life at Lochbuie and was known as “Páidín of the Isles”. He is buried at the Kerb Cairn with his wife Bruidhe, daughter of King Bridei I (Bruidhe) who Saint Columba converted to Christianity. No record has been found 620AD – 1164AD, however, it is believed that they became very powerful in number gaining all of Mull to their claim during this time but remaining a neutral because of their Christian beliefs until the Viking Invasion of Europe 789AD-1066AD and started attacking the monasteries. When the monastery of Iona in 795AD was attacked, the Páidín (recorded Phaidein) went to war with Charlemagne's Army against the Vikings.
Part IV begins at the first mentioned of a Clan MacPhaidein being Chief Mungo MacPhaidein 1098AD-1177AD and his son-n-law, Somerled, 1st Lord of the Isles 1158AD–1164AD who had married his daughter Raghnailt, fought against the Danes until the Battle of Renfrew and Chief MacPhaidein went to Broughshane, Ireland and returned with 500 of his kin to fight under Somerled. Somerled was killed and MacPhaidein, a very senior Argyll Chieftain, gathered his army, over 1000 MacPhaidein men and returned to Renfrew to retrieve the body of Somerled and bring him back to Argyll. MacPhaidein returned to Mull with his body and buried him at Iona. Somerled's eldest Son was Dugald and he founded the MacDougall clan who were high chiefs of Argyll. The second son was Ranald who founded the MacDonald clan. Mungo and Somerled is listed of Dalriadic noble Irish blood in "The origins of the Irish nation" and lists the McFadden genealogy as a second son of O'Brien King of Munster however, in Irish Pedigrees: or the Orgin and Stem of the Irish Nation 1892 5th Edition, Volume 1, MacFirbis's Genealogies list Diarmaid Mactoirrdelbaig Ó Brian 1060-1118, King of Munster's children as: a) CONCHOBAR (-1142). King of Munster. b) TORDELBACH (-1167). King of Munster. c) TADHG (-1167). King of Thomond 1122. so if Mungo and Someled did descend from Irish Noble Blood, then it had to be through one of their maternal lines. Prior to 1164AD the 4 Castles on Mull were built by the MacPhaidein. Duart Castle protected the South East and was the main Castle of MacPhaidein where the Chief resided. Moy was a watchtower protecting the South East of the Island at Lochbuie. Dun Ara Castle protecting the North and Aros Castle protecting the Center of Mull. After Somerled's death in 1164AD, nominal Norwegian authority was established, but practical control of the realm was divided between Somerled's sons and the heirs of Somerled's brother-in-law, the Crovan Dynasty. His son Dugald received the former territory of the Cenél Loairn, now known as Lorn, of which Mull formed part. After a few decades, they acknowledged the English kings as their overlords, so Dugald's heirs (the MacDougalls) complained to Haakon, the Norwegian king, and in 1237 were rewarded by the kingship being split; rule of the Hebrides was transferred to the MacDougall line, and they were made the "kings of the Hebrides". They established a foothold on Mull in MacPhaidein lands and even though the MacPhaidein were kin, they were not reccognized, and the MacDougall's saked Aros Castle making it their own.
Part V takes us to the beginning of the 14th century as Chief Malcolm MacPhaiden, father of Chief Alexander MacPhaidein, is recorded in Kintyre in 1304 defending the MacPhaidens right to Mull. The Treaty of Edinburgh–Northampton was signed on 1 May 1328 which recognized the independence of Scotland and Robert de Bruys as King. A violent dispute arose over the Scottish kingship between King John Balliol and Robert de Bruys. Somerled's descendants had formed into three families: the MacDougalls, the MacDonalds, and the MacRorys. In 1354, though in exile and without control of his ancestral lands, John, the MacDougall heir, quit-claimed any rights he had over Mull to the Lord of the Isles, John MacDonald. Throughout this time, the descendants of the Cenél Loairn retained their identity; as the MacLeans John MacLean the son of Gillean-na-Taughe's, had two sons, Eachann Reaganach (Hector the Stern) and Lachainn Lubanach (Lachlan the Wily). Hector, the eldest son, married Margaret, eldest daughter of MacDonald, Lord of the Isles, via a Papal Dispensation dated 14 April 1356. Lachlan married Mary, a younger sister of Margaret, in May of 1367 and received MacPhaideins "Duart" Castle as the dowry. This now became the stronghold of the MacLeans control of Mull when authority was restored by James IV thus the great lands of the Clan MacPhaidein of Mull had been reduced from 338 SQMI or 216,320 Acres to the lands at Lochbuie 34,375 SQMI or 22,000 Acres. By proxy, Hector and Lachlan were granted independent charters to lands on the Isle of Mull by John MacDonald, the Lord of the Isles - Hector at Lochbuie and Lachlan at Duart. The two dominant branches of the family were formed. Hector constantly feuded with his brother Lachlan and only during an attack would they join forces. Therefore, Hector changed the spelling to MacLaine and became the Clan MacLaine of Lochbuie and Lachlan the Clan MacLean of Duart. As we know the victor always writes the history. MacLaine legend states: When Hector MacLaine went to claim the lands given to him by the MacDonalds c1370 he found it occupied by the MacPhaidein. Hector climbed to the top of the Castle and shot an arrow through a bone that the MacPhaidein Chief was eating. Not being foolish, the MacPhaidein Chief removed himself from the scene. Whether MacLaine was aiming for the bone, and hit, or at MacPhaidein, and missed, is a matter of speculation (and perspective). MacPhaidein Legend states: When Hector MacLaine came to claim the lands given to him by the MacDonalds c1367, he knew the lands were already under the possession of the MacPhaidein's. So, he devised a scheme to take over the lands from within. He convinced Chief Alexander MacPhaidein they would share the land and for mutual protection from various raiders and neighboring tribes, he would restore the MacPhaidein fortalice watchtower at the head of Lochbuie that had fallen into disarray. Chief MacPhaidein granted Hector permission and after Moy Castle was completed, Hector used the Castle to wage war on the MacPhaidein! However, the MacPhaidein fought so fiercely defending their land that Hector had to call a truce to confer. A feast in honor of the MacPhaidein Chief was prepared by the MacLaine at the base of Moy Castle. Hector climbed to the top of the Castle and shot an arrow through a bone that the MacPhaidein Chief was eating piercing his neck, killing him and ending the war. This was the end of the once great Clan MacPhaidein as most clansmen moved on or were absorbed (Sept) into the Clan MacLaine. Which or if either account is truth is unknown to time, however we know history is always recorded by the victor therefore recorded in the records of Clain Maclaine. The only MacPhaidein's who remained were the Pethein as they were the clerics and missionaries of the Clan MacPhaidein 570AD-c1370AD. James Pethein 1298AD-1377AD converted Hector MacLaine to Christianity shortly before his death, therefore Hector made the Pethein the clerics of Clan MacLaine serving the MacLaine c1370AD to 1600AD at the death of Sir James Pethein, the last Reverend of Lochbuie who faithfully preached the Culdee doctrine until the last message was preached at Lochbuie Sunday October 8, 1600 the day he died. No further record of the Clan MacPhaidein exists, to our knowlege.
Part VI must mention the Reformation and the Covenanter Movement as it has such significance in Clan MacPhaidein history. 1332AD was the last mention of the Culdee Church in Scotland but Presbyterian tradition, particularly that of the Church of Scotland, traces its roots to the Church founded by Saint Columba of the Culdean Church. As the Pethein continued preaching the Culdean doctrine, Scotland was moving away from the Medieval Church which gave rise to reformers such as John Wycliffe (l. 1330-1384) and Jan Hus (l. c. 1369-1415) and religious sects, condemned as heresies by the Church, such as the Bogomils and Cathars, among many others. This inadvertently sparked the bloody Peasants Revolt in 1381 by challenging the established order. The Bohemian Reformation (c. 1380 - c. 1436), the precursor to the Protestant Reformation, which initially only sought to remedy unbiblical practices by the Medieval "Celtic" Kirk. Throughout the 15th century, corruption in the Kirk was widespread and devout believers sought to rectify this. The refusal of the Kirk to address these criticisms eventually led to the schisms that would establish Protestant Christian sects which developed into denominations such as Lutheranism, Calvinism, Anglicanism, and others. This brought on The Scottish Reformation, c.1525-1560 led by John Knox. The aim of the Reformers was to stamp out every outward vestige of the ancient Celtic Faith. The Witchcraft Act of 1563 made witchcraft, or consulting with witches, capital crimes which was wrongly used against the Reformers. King James VII was instrumental in the North Berwick Witch Trails, beginning in 1589. An estimated 4,000 to 6,000 people, mostly from Scotland, were wrongly tried for witchcraft during this period. Many Reformers were martyred during this time. In 1611 the Church adopted the Authorized King James Version Bible, and the first Scots version was printed in Scotland in 1633. The Covenanters were a religious sect which originate from the Culdean Church. The origins of the Covenanter movement lay in disputes with James VI & I, and his son Charles I over church structure and doctrine. In 1638, thousands of Scots signed the National Covenant, pledging to resist changes imposed by Charles I on the church; following victory in the 1639 and 1640. Results of the Bishops' Wars, the Covenanters took control of Scotland. The 1643 Solemn League and Covenant brought them into the Religious Wars of the Three Kingdoms. The First English Civil War on the side of Parliament, but they supported Charles in the 1648 Second English Civil War After his execution in 1649, the Covenanter government agreed to restore his son Charles II to the English throne defeat in the 1651. Third English Civil War led to Scotland's incorporation into the Commonwealth. After the 1660 Restoration, the Covenanters lost control of the church and became a persecuted minority, leading to several armed rebellions and a period from 1679 to 1688 known as "The Killing Time". Following the 1688 Glorious Revolution in Scotland, the Church of Scotland was re-established as a wholly Presbyterian structure and most Covenanters readmitted. This marked the end of their existence as a significant movement, although dissident minorities persisted in Scotland, Ireland, and North America, and exist today as the Reformed Presbyterian communion of Churches. With the Clan MacPhaidein origins being in the Culdean Church and the only continued known line, the Pethein, we must make mention of the Reverend Alexander Pethein "Peden", The Prophet as he was known as one of the leading figures in the Covenanter Movement in Scotland. Through him the "Peden" spell their name as he changed the spelling from Pethein to Peden when he was in college at the University of Glasgow 1646-1648 because he got tired of writing it so many times. All Peden's descend from his brother James Pethein " Peden". Alexander was the Great Grandson of the Reverend Sir James Pethein, last minister of Lochbuie.
Part VII as the Reformation begins, brings us to the beginning of the end of the Clan system when The Lord of the Isles was stripped of his titles in 1493 by James IV and he subdued the organized military might of the Hebrides. This act proved to be a major factor in bringing an end to the Highlands kin-based social structure. In 1540, James V had toured the Hebrides, forcing the clan chiefs to accompany him. That meeting led to forcing the Chiefs to be more forth giving to the crown. James VI passed 9 laws against the Highland clans. The new laws, known as the Statutes of Iona, were devised to bring the Highlands and Islands under state control. On the sacred isle of Iona in August 1609, nine Highland clan chiefs put their signatures to the statutes that would begin the erosion of their way of life. King William III of Orange tried to once and for all bring the Clans to an end when he tried to make these powerful Highland families swear allegiance to the crown which led to the tragic and totally avoidable massacre of Glencoe on 13 February 1692. The Treaty of Union took effect on 1 May 1707 which England, Wales, and Scotland became "United into One Kingdom by the Name of Great Britain." By this time the Clan system was virtually gone and with Bonnie Prince Charlie's defeat at the Battle of Culloden April 16, 1746, was truly the end. In 1752 John Maclaine, XVII Laird of Lochbuie” built the 1st Lochbuie House and abandoned Moy Castle. In 1790 Murdoch Maclaine, XIX of Lochbuie built the current Lochbuie House. In 1920 Kenneth Douglas Lorne Maclaine, XXIV of Lochbuie, lost the Lochbuie estate to Sir Stephen Gatty as the result of a law suit involving a single payment of a loan. An end to the era of Clan Maclaine in Lochbuie. In 1922 the Corbett family purchased the estate from Sir Stephen Gatty. Jim and Patience Corbett are current owners of the 22,000 acre estate which encompasses the Original MacPhaidein Lands at Locbuie, Kerb Cairn, Stone Circle, Moy Castle, Old Lochbuie House, Current Lochbuie House, and the Chapel of Caibeal Mheamhair converted in 1864 by the family of Donald MacLaine XXII Laird of Lochbuie who died in 1863. It was renovated in 1972 by the Corbett family and currently by Jim and Patience Corbett who are renovating the entire estate.
Part VIII in conclusion the humble beginnings of the great Clan MacPhaidein, once powerful and great in number, only bits and pieces of historical record remain but enough to prove who we were. Scattered across the globe but longing to return home. We shall have the recognition and retribution we deserve as an intricate part of Scotland's history standing for God, Clan, and Country to the bloody end. One day we shall come home.